Phu Quoc

"Our" beach on Phu Quoc

After a month of hard travel through big, hot, dirty, noisy SE Asian cities more numerous than I care to remember, we were ready for calmer settings and a little R&R. We are now on the island of Phu Quoc in the South China Sea off the southwest coast of Vietnam. Our guidebook and internet sources suggested it was an unspoiled tropical paradise yet to be discovered by tourists. Of course any traveler knows once a location makes it into the guidebook, it is no longer a “secret”. Despite this, Phu Quoc is a reasonable destination for anyone seeking some rest and relaxation in a tropical setting.

Our island home

The long path to the beach

The mega resorts so common in much of the world have not found their way here---yet. However, there are numerous hotels and guesthouses to fit all budgets and tastes ranging from four star resorts costing well over $100 per night to palm frond huts on the beach which can be had for as little as $15 per night. There are restaurants for every taste and budget as well.

Unfortunately, like everywhere else in the developing world (which used to be called the third world) there are problems with too rapid development and the resulting trash associated with the first (or developed) world without the infrastructure to handle it all. Beaches in front of hotels are kept clean for the guests but the undeveloped beach next door is usually covered in trash mostly in the form of plastic bags.

Despite these problems, Phu Quoc is a worthy destination. There are numerous beaches with beautiful white sandy shores. The water is crystal clear and 85 degrees. Most days are a mix of clouds and sun with an air temperature of 85-90 degrees. It is quite humid but there is usually an onshore breeze that prevents the heat and humidity from becoming oppressive. The shore is lined with coconut palms which is one of my favorite trees. They provide food, shade and fuel especially if one is camping. We don’t need the fuel as we are “camping” in a beautiful little bungalow a few feet from the sand with air conditioning, hot water, and breakfast included for the not so princely sum of $35 a night. Our days are spent lounging on the beach under palapa umbrellas lulled into insensibility by the waves lapping at the shore, a cool breeze for our sweaty brow and ice cold Tiger beer to quench our thirst. It is a welcome change from the frenetic pace of the city.

The fruit lady slices and dices mangos for 30 cents

There is not much else to do here which is fine with us. There is snorkeling and diving available but our one snorkeling expedition to the An Tho’i Archipelago just off the south coast of Phu Quoc was a little disappointing when compared with other locations we have visited like the Red Sea in Egypt or the Adaman Sea in Indonesia. The coral is mostly dead as a result of bleaching due to increased UV from the diminishing ozone in the atmosphere. There is also not a lot of fish left due to over fishing and degradation of habitat. Even so, we had an enjoyable day exploring snorkeling sites on three different islands of the archipelago. Thanks to Deborah, I have slowed down my movements in the water while snorkeling. She just drifts with the current and sees many more sea creatures than I used to. Had I not used her technique I would have missed the 50 pound grouper hiding down in the rocks as I lay motionless in the water above him. Even though the coral and fish were not the best I have seen, it is hard not to enjoy snorkeling in 85 degree water in a beautiful island setting on a sunny day.

Sunset over the south China Sea