Saturday, February 7, 2009

Ankor Wat


Deborah's triumpant entry into Ankor Wat


I was an avid reader of National Geographic magazine from the time I was about 8 years old. Aside from the pictures of bare breasted native women I was most intrigued by the pyramids of Egypt and the temples of Ankor Wat in Cambodia. The pictures of these mysterious temples enshrouded in jungle fired my young imagination. I could not conceive of anything that could be so exotic and I vowed to go there some day to make sure it was real. A few weeks ago I honored that vow.

Early morning mist rises from the temple

Ankor Wat is the generic name for a huge complex of temples that covers over 60 square miles. The first view of Ankor Wat is across a giant moat that surrounds the main temple. The moat reflects the soaring temples against the verdant green of the jungle and the azure blue of the tropical sky. The Kmer architecture with its ornately decorated tiered structures is breathtaking in detail as well as scope. It is so different from anything else I have seen in the world. In short, it is incomparable.


Detail of frieze showing the dancing apsaras or "angels"

The first temples were built around the beginning of the 11th century and construction continued into the late 14th century. The first were built to honor Buddha but as Hinduism became more popular some were “remodeled” to reflect this change and new temples were built to honor the panoply of Hindu gods.

Some of the complexes are very extensive and take hours to explore. They are in various states of restoration and disrepair. Ankor Wat temple, for which the whole site is named is in the best condition and is nearly as good as when it was built 800 years ago. My personal favorite was Wat Preah Kahn. Part of my affinity for this particular temple is probably due to visiting early in the morning when there was no one else around. Approaching the temple down a long corridor of jungle, the temple was lit by the early morning sun as the mist rose over the jungle. The jungle still partially embraces this temple with giant trees entwined in the stone of the temple. Strains of classical music alternated in my brain with the theme song from the Indiana Jones movies.

Unfortunately, Ankor Wat is being loved to death by the millions of tourists that pass through each year. The Cambodian government is beginning to block off parts of the temples. If you have any desire to see it, my advice is to go now before more of it is closed to the public.

Another nymph under a tree which has overgrown the temple

It really is difficult to give a good description of this amazing place so please enjoy the pictures and use your own power of imagination. Better still, get out of your chair and go see it. It will not fail to enchant, amaze and impress you.







Eastern gate of the temple by tuk-tuk

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