Iceland has hot and
cold running water
Clouds of steam pour out of a towering mountain that plunges into Djupifjordur or the Djupi
fjord. The wind blows away the clouds of
steam to reveal a plunging cascade of boiling hot water. The thermal fall drops well over one hundred
feet to feed a hot river at the base of the mountain. I spin
around around to the opposite bank where
another equally tall mountain plunges to the sea split by a beautiful
waterfall of crystal clear ice cold water that feeds a rushing stream.
Iceland is a land of
contrasts.
The steaming peak of Mt Snaefelllsjökull looms over a
massive glacier that clings to slopes above ropy ancient flows of lichen clad
basalt. At 65 degrees north latitude, just below the Arctic Circle, even in
late August the days are 19 hours long.
On the summer solstice, the sun rise at 1:30AM and sets at 12:30 AM. In
the winter, there is just a few hours of daylight.
After landing in Seydisfjordur on the ferry from the Faroe
Islands we made a beeline to the Northwest corner of Iceland to an area called
the Western Fjords. We wanted to beat
the cold weather here where winter starts to set in in mid-September and also
to meet up with our friends Bob and Pauline from Mt Shasta. We were expecting a frigid trip with lots of
rain. So far, every day has been T-shirt
weather but rain is expected in the next few days. The past few days we have hiked
to a waterfall, walked along the shore
of a pristine fjords, hiked to lighthouse that looked like something from a
Buck Rogers movie, stood on basalt arches 50 feet above the North Atlantic and hiked
to caves that provided a refuge for Gisla, a character from an Icelandic saga.
Our rented campervan continues to be problematic. It is a cantankerous old beast that I have
nicknamed Moby Dick because it is a great white whale of a camper. Every morning Deborah prays to St Jude that
it will start and about half the time it does but only with copious amounts of
starter fluid, cursing, and a few kicks to the bumper. The latter two procedures don’t really help
it start, but it does provide relief for the driver.
Tomorrow, we are headed out to the western most point in Europe (if you discount the Azores according to Lonely Planet) to visit bird rookeries. More on that later.
The sun has just set but at 9:30 but twilight will last
until well after 11:00. Fortunately, our
little camper has pretty decent blackout curtains so I am ready to hit the
sack anticipating the adventures of
tomorrow. Stay tuned for more of our adventures in the great white whale.
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