Bloggin'Sitting in our daughter's apartment in Manhattan, I have had a few days to absorb and reflect on our trip to Africa.
To paraphrase Dickens; It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was a time of wisdom, it was at many times pure foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season Darkness...we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, were all going direct to heaven, we were all going direct the other way.
To say we started this trip with trepidation would be an understatement. The "dark continent" was a place to be feared. Crime was rampant, animals were wild and dangerous, and Africa was a difficult place to travel. However, early on in our travels we concluded that for the most part these perceptions were inaccurate.
While it is true that there are some crime ridden places like Nairobi or Johannesburg, we found most African cities reasonably safe...provided that one exercises the normal caution one would use anywhere in the world. There are definitely wild animals in Africa but with a little knowledge and common sense one can safely interact with even the most dangerous of animals. (The caveat here is "at a reasonable distance". The interesting thing was that as our trip went on, that reasonable distance became closer and closer as we learned to "read" the animals and their individual temperaments) Finally, the perception that Africa is a difficult place for the independent traveler is just not true. In most places public transportation, while not always the most comfortable, is readily available. Where we could not find public transport, we resorted to hitchhiking and found that to be easy as well. During the last few weeks of our journey we rented a car and wished we had done it sooner.
Forest fire-Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
To paraphrase Dickens; It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was a time of wisdom, it was at many times pure foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season Darkness...we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, were all going direct to heaven, we were all going direct the other way.
To say we started this trip with trepidation would be an understatement. The "dark continent" was a place to be feared. Crime was rampant, animals were wild and dangerous, and Africa was a difficult place to travel. However, early on in our travels we concluded that for the most part these perceptions were inaccurate.
While it is true that there are some crime ridden places like Nairobi or Johannesburg, we found most African cities reasonably safe...provided that one exercises the normal caution one would use anywhere in the world. There are definitely wild animals in Africa but with a little knowledge and common sense one can safely interact with even the most dangerous of animals. (The caveat here is "at a reasonable distance". The interesting thing was that as our trip went on, that reasonable distance became closer and closer as we learned to "read" the animals and their individual temperaments) Finally, the perception that Africa is a difficult place for the independent traveler is just not true. In most places public transportation, while not always the most comfortable, is readily available. Where we could not find public transport, we resorted to hitchhiking and found that to be easy as well. During the last few weeks of our journey we rented a car and wished we had done it sooner.
Forest fire-Hwange National Park, ZimbabweWe camped for most of our trip and I could not imagine doing Africa any other way. Our goal was to fully experience the wildness of Africa. We wanted to be out in nature every waking and sleeping moment. Yes, we did have wild animals outside our tent at night. However, to me the thrill of hearing an elephant tromping by your tent or the roar of a hungry lion was just something I would not want to have missed.
Our camp in Opuwo, Namibia
Africa exceeded our expectations on many levels but nothing compared to the wildlife. I expected to see so much less than we did. Many times I was overwhelmed by the number and diversity of the wildlife we saw; not just overall but oftentimes the numbers in one place at the same time. Many times we saw predator and prey at the same watering hole seemingly living in perfect harmony. (Perhaps we humans could learn some lessons from this). We learned so much about the animals from the many excellent guides we employed along the way. While some of them were difficult to understand at times, invariably they were very knowledgeable about the animals, birds and eco-systems.
I kiss a rhino skull on a bet-Does this count Dick?
Our camp in Opuwo, NamibiaAfrica exceeded our expectations on many levels but nothing compared to the wildlife. I expected to see so much less than we did. Many times I was overwhelmed by the number and diversity of the wildlife we saw; not just overall but oftentimes the numbers in one place at the same time. Many times we saw predator and prey at the same watering hole seemingly living in perfect harmony. (Perhaps we humans could learn some lessons from this). We learned so much about the animals from the many excellent guides we employed along the way. While some of them were difficult to understand at times, invariably they were very knowledgeable about the animals, birds and eco-systems.
I kiss a rhino skull on a bet-Does this count Dick?Tourist infrastructure in East and Southern Africa is excellent. Roads are generally good, petrol is available everywhere, campgrounds and lodges are well developed and safe. Western food is available in nearly every town of any size with western style grocery stores and, in the larger cities, shopping malls that would not be out of place anywhere in the developed world. While we did travel down some lonely roads, I never felt that I was in any danger and there would always be someone along to help you in case of a car breakdown.
Himba girls-NamibiaWe had many opportunities to meet with local people especially after we left the overland truck. Both black and white Africans were friendly and almost without fail helpful and welcoming. Even the hustlers and touts were less obnoxious than many places we have been. We had many interesting conversation with people from all walks of life. We had the opportunity to visit many of them in their homes and villages and were deeply touched by their spirit and generosity even in the most humble home.
Seal colony, Skeleton Coast, NamibiaWhile we greatly enjoyed our time in Africa, it was not all fun and games. There were times when we were at our wits end dealing with normal everyday tasks. Even more disturbing is the pervasive and rampant corruption from the cop on the street to the heads of state. Ancient tribal allegiances and a growing disparity between rich and poor are not only impediments to progress but can and do lead to violent upheavals. Upcoming elections in places like Kenya, Zimbabwe and South Africa all have the potential for disruption and violence. Despite these almost insoluble problems most of the people we met were optimistic about their future and their country's future.
Africa was not the assault on our senses and sensibilities that I had anticipated. Yes, there were days that we were so hot, dirty, frustrated and tired we just wanted to quit. Yet on the next day we would be totally blown away by a vista, a wild animal sighting or the warmth of the people. In the final analysis, Africa was ultimately a lot easier to travel in than either India or Southeast Asia. Pollution, noise, population and poverty were not problems to the degree we expected. This is not to say that Africa does not have these problems, it was just less overwhelming than other places we have visited.
Much of the terrain east and southern Africa presented as desert or near desert. For several weeks it seemed that all we saw was scrubby Mopane forests barely alive in a sea of dead yellow grass. Yet we were told when the rainy season comes this all changes and the landscape becomes a lush Garden of Eden. As we traveled south into Namibia and South Africa where spring had come it did become lusher and greener. The landscape became much more dramatic. Giant red sand dunes pierced a sky so blue it hurt your eyes. This slowly transitioned into towering craggy mountains cradling lush green valleys. Finally, we came down out of the mountains to the dramatic setting of Cape Town with the gigantic escarpment of Table Mountain tumbling into an azure blue sea.
Victoria Falls, ZimbabweThe good news is that all of the countries we visited are making concerted efforts to preserve their wild places. However, they can't do this without a lot of money; money that mostly comes from tourists. So if you care about keeping wild things wild, get out there and see it for yourself. Not only will you contribute to the preservation of something wild, but you just might find something wild in yourself.
Happy Trails
Richard
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