Eldoret,Kenya to Kampala, Uganda

A call of nature wakes me at 1AM. As I step out of the tent a giant bolt of lightning splits the dark Kenyan night. The trees above me are illuminated in a stark silhouette against the sky above. Shortly a rolling peal of thunder portends the rain that will soon follow. While I take care of business several more bolts spaw n a chorus of deep rolling thunder that seems to penetrate my very being. I crawl back into the tent as the first rain drops patter against the canvas. The patter soon turns to a steady drumbeat and then intensifies to a tropical deluge. The deafening sound against the roof of the tent makes sleep difficult. Several more flashes of light illuminate the tent walls and the almost angelic face of Deborah, sleeping in a lump next to me. I drift in and out of sleep for the rest of the night and wake before the 6AM alarm that will sent us out into the dripping morning. Deb and I quickly dress, pack away our sleeping bags and then make the discovery that this tent, like is predecessor is not exactly waterproof. In fact, one of the sleeping pads has the dark stain of water saturation across half of the mat. The mat is nylon covered foam and as I lift it from the pool of water on the tent floor it drips its sodden load. There is no remedy but to roll it up and hope for a dry camp tonight. We step out under a leaden sky in the predawn light. After a quick trip to the bathroom we strike the tent and roll it up along with a few gallons of water.

It is raining steadily but Deb and I stay dry in our new ponchos (thanks Chris). The water streams down our bare legs and fills our sandals but it is not the cold rain of the mountains of northern California so we don’t mind so much. We walk over to the dripping kitchen palapa and are soon filling our plates with sausage, eggs, potatoes and beans. We top it off with hot tea and fresh Kenyan papaya. There is a rush to get the dishes done, load the truck and head down the road to the Ugandan border and its capital Kampala; our destination for the night. Our soggy fellow travelers climb on the truck and condensation soon blots out any possible views of the passing scenery. The day slowly brightens, the truck dries out and we are soon descending from the highlands to the Great Rift Valley below. As we lose altitude the day warms and we are breezing along with the windows open enjoying the lush green countryside punctuated by traditional Kenyan round bomas with thatched roofs surrounded by natural fences of thorns and cacti. Kesh, our group leader, announces we will soon be at the Uganda border and to have our passports ready. After a surprisingly quick border crossing we are soon zooming through the verdant green Ugandan countryside anticipating our arrival in Kampala.

There is a noticeable difference in the people here. With darker skin and broader faces they make a contrast the fine features of the Kikuyu of Kenya. Shortly we pull off the road and stop under the shade of a pair of mango trees for lunch. I must go to eat and will continue the saga of our African adventure soon.