FURTHER: A TRAVEL BLOG: Padova ramble

One of the things we like most in our travels is connecting with locals and trying to experience life as they do. In Italy we are very lucky to have some very dear friends that we have known for nearly 20 years. They have lived in the city of Padova for most of their lives. Donatella and Ruggero have the connections and knowledge that only a local can have. Another of our favorite things to do is wander the streets of a strange city and attempt to discover its' essence. We especially treasure those times when we can couple a local's knowledge of a city with our explorations. Our recent walk through the old city of Padova reminded us of why we travel; a chance to experience cultures different from our own, a chance to live life as locals do, a chance to experience "la bella vita".

We walk down a narrow quiet side street flanked by thousand year old buildings. We enter a tree shaded cobbled square in the center of the University of Padova. Founded in 1222, it was the academic home of Copernicus and Galileo.

University Square

We wander through ancient streets to a marketplace that has been in continuous operation for hundreds of years. Sadly some of the market is full of cheap goods from China, but much of it is as it has been for a long time. We walk through the fruit and vegetable section and see a bounty of produce from all over Italy. Giant tomatoes compete for our attention with many items we rarely see in America. Great bins are filled with mushrooms of every description and perfect fruits that give off the aroma of tree ripened wonder.

Tomatoes the size of cantelopes

We walk through a long arcade past rows of giant hams (prosciutto crudo) swinging on hooks from the ceiling. Hundreds of varieties of cheeses are side by side with salamis, cappricola and mortadella. As we walk, Ruggero shares his wealth of arcane knowledge. On one corner he points out a stone strip embedded in the wall. It is about the length and breadth of an arm. Ruggero tells us that this was once the textile market and the embedded stone was the measuring unit for a length of cloth (ever heard of a cubit?) We meander back to the square to find the first clock tower in Italy. It is a magnificent tower with eleven signs of the Zodiac embedded its face. Ruggero tells us that the artist who built it was not paid by the patron so the artist left out the Zodiac sign of the deadbeat patron in protest.

Ruggero then suggests we stop for a quick espresso in the best coffee house in Padova. We order at the counter and sit at a sidewalk table and watch the parade of people going by. While we sip the tasty brew, Ruggero receives a phone call from his son Fede and informs us that we will meet Fede and return home in Fede’s boat along one of the canals of Padova. Ruggero says that Venice is not the only town in this part of Italy that has canals. Padova used to have many more, but the city fathers decided to cover most of them.

We soon spot Fede and his girlfriend, Roberta, in the street and walk over to the market to buy some cheese. Fede asks us if we like raw fish, and being the sushi nuts that we are, we say of course. He steps into the fish store and places the order. While we are admiring the freshness of the fish in the case and a lonely live eel in a tank, we turn and notice Fede and Roberta have disappeared. So we stand in the fish shop for a few minutes and watch the fish monger prepare some fresh sweet shrimp and and thinly sliced tuna. Just about the time the fish is ready, Fede and Roberta return with glasses of crisp sparkling Prosseco. We toast and start to eat the fish. We squirt a little fresh lemon on on the shrimp and grab them by the head and suck the tails out of the shell. The word succulent was invented to describe this experience. The tuna is sliced paper thin and we grab it with tiny forks and it practically melts in our mouths; the equal of any sashimi I have ever eaten.

We savor the fish and wine but all too soon it is gone, so we start off down more narrow streets. I look up admiring the architecture. Ornate cornices spring from the tops of the two story buildings. Here and there we see a bust or a plaque. Occasionally, I spot the remains of ancient frescoes crumbling from the facades.

After a short walk we arrive at the canal. The gate is locked so we climb over and go down a short flight of stairs to Fede’s boat. I joke with Fede that he should have the key. He quickly responds with a smile that he does, but it is more interesting to climb over the gate. It is a small motor boat that he built four years ago, but sadly it is in a state of disrepair having endured four years on the canal uncovered. He apologizes for its condition, but claims he has had no time to maintain it. It is still seaworthy (despite some small plants growing up through the decking). The motor started easily so we put-putt down the canal to Fede’s house.

The canal is a lazy green river with trees growing up and over the canal. It is a jungle river experience in the middle of the major metropolis of Padova. After a few minutes we arrive at Fede’s house. He gives us after a quick tour, and then Ruggero borrows his car to return to our Italian home.